ricette e vini

enogastronomia ricette tipiche
by Valeria
wines & typical recipes  
 

Typical recipes and wines of the traditions Italian regional enogastronomiche. Our itineraries enogastronomici and the critiques on restaurants and wine cellars derive from our direct experience



 

 

 

 
   

 

CALABRIA

In historical age Calabria was center of flourishing civilization being earth of Hellenic immigration, so much to be denominated Great Greece. The food of the Calabrians is substantially what was once, determined by the uses by the beliefs and by the history. More than few recipes go up again to the dawns of the civilization of the Mediterranean table, inspired to the customs of Greek and the Latins, while others have been introduced by the Arabs, from the Norman ones, from the Spaniards, from French. In the colony achea of "Sybaris" (Sibari) where the inhabitants lived in the most refined luxury, among the favorite foods they remember him the "laganon", or wide noodles, of which it gave later testimony Apicio.
Here the were probably introduced "makaria", kind of cylindrical gnocchetti, food Greek ritual, from which you/they perhaps derive the macaronis. While it is surely being Arab the name of the "mustica", appetizing food that derives from the practice to put the anchovies been just born sott'olio (from the modern epoch the peperoncino is added). It deals with a preserved food, therefore of a vital resource for the suburbs of the Appennino, where the availability of non perishable provisions was up to yesterday the only desired wealth.
It said an old popular song: "Amaru who lu puorco doesn't kill", unhappy who doesn't have pigs to kill, because bagged, lard, cheeses, eggplants sott'olio and annoyed tomatoes were for the people of the South the guarantee to survive in the periods, not infrequent, of famine. There is in the way to feed some Calabrians something of sacred and of ancient, the observance of rules of behavior that you/they have been coming for the centuries. You would say that between the Sila and the Narrow one the connection was warned more elsewhere between the demands of the nutrition and those some spirit: every religious party had in Calabria its food of devotion, every event of the family life its gastronomic fulfillment.
It was rule that for Christmas you/they had to be put in table thirteen courses and that the same had to be done for the Epiphany; the parties of Carnival asked for a menù founded upon macaronis and meat of pig, the Easter could not celebrate him without the ritual breads and the roast one of lamb. For the Ascension they were of rigor the tagliolinis to the milk, for St. Rocco the representing sweets the parts of the body that could recover with the intercession of the taumaturgo.

The rigor of this calendar is grown weak with the time leaving however visible traces in the food repertoire of the region. In the area they found an ideal habitat the eggplants (long violets), prepared in many ways, from the bittersweet one to the funghetto. Also their more famous Italian preparation, said "to the parmigiana", it was born in the south and not to Parma, that only gave the name to the recipe for the abundant dose of used (in Calabria the pecorino) cheese. All the principal ingredients that constitute the base of the kitchen of the ancient one "Brutium" (Latin name of Calabria) vegetables, pasta, derived of the pig, fish on the coast, is married and personalized by the strong contribution of the famous oil of olive, present practically in every flat.

Particularly numerous and you launch the sweets, especially manufactured on the occasion of the parties, that preserve the most ancient traditions calabre, Arabs and Greek frets: the scalilles or scaledde, the zeppoles of S. Joseph, the cuddura of New Year's eve, the ciccio and the pignolata for Easter and besides cicirata, turtiddi, vecchiarelle, mostacciuoli, set them, etc.
Not many the wines, but generous: among the whites the Greek, the melissa and the melitino, among the red the cerasuolo, the savuto, the pollino and the cirò.

       
     

 

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